Toum

Steps

1. 1
   Peel the garlic and split each clove to remove the green germ. Leaving it in makes the toum bitter and harsh.
2. 2
   Pulse the garlic with the salt in a tall narrow processor, scraping down repeatedly, until it is a completely smooth paste.
3. 3
   Now begin adding the oil literally a teaspoon at a time with the motor running. This first stage cannot be rushed — go too fast and it will never emulsify.
4. 4
   After about 100 ml it will visibly thicken and turn white. Only then can you increase to a thin steady stream.
5. 5
   Alternate: add oil for 30 seconds, then a splash of lemon juice, then oil again. The alternation is what keeps it stable.
6. 6
   Finish with the iced water to lighten it and set the colour.
7. 7
   It should be stiff enough to hold a peak. Refrigerate at least 4 hours before using; the raw heat mellows considerably. Keeps a month.